You are standing on a slate slope above a river in August. The vineyard runs almost vertical. The Mosel curves below like a green ribbon. It is 22°C, there is a breeze coming off the water, and someone has poured you a glass of Riesling that is 10.5% alcohol and tastes like citrus zest,...
Summer is when a wine trip becomes something else. The days are longer. Lunches run into afternoons. Tastings that would end at four in October run until seven, and by then someone has brought out olives and bread and the sun is still on the terrace. The best wineries know this. They plan for it....
Walk into a wine shop in Greve, and the black rooster stares back at you from a hundred labels. Walk into a wine shop in Rufina, forty minutes northeast, and you'll see almost none. Same country, same grape, same broad name — but two different wines with two very different stories, told by...
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